Last night, on the advice of a friend, I watched the movie Beer Wars.
As our fans and listeners know, part of our mission at Into the Soup is to support chef driven restaurants and smaller, specialty food providers so that “dining doesn’t go the way of Wal-Mart.”
Beer Wars is about a portion of the food and beverage industry that is particularly difficult for the independent operator. Written, Directed and Produced by Anat Baron, a former executive who took on the beverage industry as CEO of Mike’s Hard Lemonade (and happens to be allergic to alcohol), Beer Wars describes the challenges faced by entrepreneurs as they work to get their superior products to market.
The biggest challenges come from the top three massive competitors Anheuser-Busch, Miller and Coors as they work to protect their 78% market share by crushing the smaller producers. This is done in any number of ways utilized by monopolistic corporations in any industry including aggressive, anti-competitive marketing; expensive legal actions; and copycat production. When they can’t beat the little guys, what do they do? They buy the brands and dismantle local production. This is not presented as a conspiracy, though. It makes me think of a line from Jurassic Park when discussing the dinosaurs attacking the smaller animals, “They just do what they do.”
A fair amount of time is spent on the three-tier system for alcohol distribution that was set up after prohibition to provide a separation of powers between the producers, distributors and retailers. While this system was initially set up to protect the industry and consumers, the movie makes the case that it is now an almost insurmountable barrier to market entry that supports the big three and is protected by an army of lobbyists in Washington, DC.
The film stands on its own as a rallying cry to support the folks out there struggling to bring quality beers to market so that those who like beer can enjoy brand variation. It also serves as a symbol for the struggles of all those small food producers who are fighting to get their products in front of consumers and those restaurateurs who are trying to build their unique businesses in a world where national (and international chains) are spreading mediocrity into every community. For me, it shows why making a conscious effort to support these businesses is my duty as a culinarian and an American consumer.
For the business minded, the film also points out two of the great dilemmas of pursuing the American Dream. On one hand, it shows the small beer producer, whose business is growing, struggling with how to remain personal with his customers. Second, it shows the woman who is pounding the pavement every night and trying to raise money for her business during the day attempting to get help from the very powerful companies that are making life so difficult. It raises key questions. Is it the ultimate dream to become one of the big boys, or cheer for joy when they come knocking? Do you sell a portion of your dream just to survive?
To a struggling entrepreneur, Beer Wars is inspirational. Watching those folks wake up every morning to fight the good fight, gave me wind in my sails not only to fight to survive but to continue to help their cause. Bravo to Anat Boran for this entertaining, educational and engaging film. Check it out. I swear by it.
Eat Well, Live Well
Heidi
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