Whisky is an intriquing beverage – ancient, beautiful, and one of those “real man’s” drinks – but we had to admit that we did not know much about it. This section is for all those who wanted to know about whisky but were afraid to ask. Click here to take about Whisky 101
Category: Booze Clues (Page 20 of 21)
words and photos by Michael Cervin
Though wine has been made in Portugal for centuries, most wine drinkers cannot name a single wine from there with the possible exception of Port. Portugal has varied wine regions and the Vinho Verde region in particular is producing exceptional juice. I had the opportunity to visit Portugal in May of 2010 to explore this diverse area and to be a judge on a six-member international panel to award the Best of Vinho Verde awards.
The way is works, a group of Portuguese judges filters through about 300 wines first, so when the international judges showed up from the U.S., Canada, Brazil, England, Germany and Norway; we were confronted with the top 30 from which we award the best five. It is a daunting if pleasurable task.
During this time, I spent four days meeting 15 different producers and tasting through some 160 wines and learned much about Portuguese wines.
What is loosely termed Vinho Verde (literally “green wine”) constitutes the main white and some red wines of Northern Portugal. The name suggests green, but in reality it means “joven” or young wines that are meant to be consumed less than a year after bottling, though many of these young wines are actually better with age, even up to five years. Yes the joven wines are light, bright and crisp with a sharp acidity, but time in bottle allows them some maturity which softens them and drops their acidity.
Overall the white wines here are not complex wines but that does not mean they are one-trick ponies either. The main white grapes are Alvarinho, Loureiro, Trajadura and grapes like Azal, Arinto and Avesso. Though these grapes make simple wines, to make a good wine is not a simple process.
“When the fruit is ripe you have to pick fast or the acidity will drop too quickly,” says Paulo Rodrigues of Quinta do Regueiro. Producers who are sincerely creating the best of the region and names to look for include Afros, Provam, Quinta do Regueiro, and Quinta de Gomariz. The Vinho Verde region covers 75,000 acres with roughly 30,000 grape growers. Many of the old trellis systems are still in use; arbors and arched systems routinely 10 feet off the ground.
At Afros, owner Vasco Croft employs biodynamic winemaking whereas Quinta de Gomariz is probably the best expression of where the wines of Vinho Verde are heading. The demographics of wine drinkers are changing and these wines reflect that. There is minimal residual sugar, lots of acidity and a slight effervescence, making these wines young, bright, and fresh, easily drinkable and very compatible with a variety of food on your plate.
The best news is that these wines are pretty inexpensive, usually between $10 and $15 in the U.S. They are strongly recommended and you’ll be pleased with the quality compared to the price you will find in your glass.
Curious about the awards? The top five Best of Vinho Verde winners for 2010 were:
- Casa de Vilacetinho, (Arinto),
- Corga da Chã, (Arinto),
- Quinta da Levada, (Azal),
- Quinta de Gomariz, QG (Avesso),
- Quinta de Gomariz, QG Branco (Alvarinho and Trajadura).
So if you see these on store shelves, pick up a bottle and experience the best of Portugal.
About Michael
Michael Cervin has been writing about the wine industry for over a decade from his home in Santa Barbara, California. His publications include Decanter, Wine & Spirits, Wine Enthusiast, The Tasting Panel, Wine & Dine, Wine Country This Week, Santa Barbara Magazine, IntoWine.com, and more than 60 other publications. He is the restaurant critic and travel writer for the Santa Barbara News-Press. Past wine and food judging experience has included The Best of Vinho Verde in Portugal, the Monterey Wine Competition, the California Central Coast Wine Challenge, The Taste of Rum Festival in Puerto Rico, the Firestone Chef’s Challenge (with celebrity chef Bradley Ogden), the Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting, the Paso Robles Winemaker’s Cook-Off, and many other competitions. Michael is the author of the Moon travel-guide Santa Barbara & the Central Coast and is a co-author of the Moon wine travel-guide, Moon California Wine Country, to be released in April 2011. His first book, Generous Fiction was released in 2009. Check out his wine, food, and travel photo-blog: www.CervinItStraight.com and www.MichaelCervin.com
by Ray Pearson
It’s difficult not to fall in love with the food and spirits of Celtic regions. Spanning 1200 miles from Scotland to Spain and hugging the Atlantic coast of Western Europe, today’s Celtic regions offer an impressive array of gastronomic wonders and diverse drink. Bottom line: the Celtic regions have a rich, pervasive history; names that sound like they are from Middle Earth; and take great pride in their spirits. Let’s take a quick tour.
Click Here for a Map of the Modern Celtic Regions
Asturias, Spain
Asturias is in “Green Spain” – in the Northwest part of the country. Lots of rain and temperate climate throughout the year means lots of apples, which means lots of cider, or sidra. There are miles of coastline on the Cantabric Sea, which means an abundance of seafood as well. Some of the more popular dishes include Caldereta (fish stew), made with fish, lobster and crab, seasoned with onion, parsley, fresh tomato and some white wine. When paired with the perky sidra its just heavenly. Another fave is Merluza a la Sidra (Hake fish in cider). A regional mainstay, this dish is a blend of hake, clams, onion, garlic, tomato, potatoes, apples and cider, cooked in a ceramic casserole, and then baked.
Galicia, Spain
The wettest area of Spain is Galicia in the extreme Northwest corner of the country adjacent to Asturias. This is the home of the most well-known of the Galician wine regions, Rias Baixas. Albarino grapes thrive in this cold, damp, drizzly climate. The white wines of the region are crisp and zesty, with various citrus tones. Local terroir adds a gentle sea influence which makes these wines pair so well with wavy-shelled oysters, cockles, clams, langoustines, mushrooms and potatoes.
Brittany, France
Brittany produces fine beer, cider, wine, and even a single malt whisky. An apple brandy called Calvados is closely linked to the region although, technically, its origin is in adjacent Normandy. Affectionately knows as “the drink of the Celts,” Calvados is made using dozens of varieties of apples from the abundant orchards of Northwestern France. To ancient Celts, the apple was thought to be a magical fruit and was fiercely protected. Calvados is matured in dark caves and cellars and is enjoyed as an aperitif, liqueur, or as an accompaniment to coffee, cigars, and cheeses.
Cornwall, United Kingdom
Mead is a fermented drink made with honey and water, is arguably one of the oldest alcoholic beverages in existence, and is sometimes referred to as honey wine. Local lore tells us that it was tradition to supply a newly married couple with enough mead for a month to insure happiness and fertility. This period became known as the honeymoon. Mead is mentioned in Beowulf, Arthurian literature, and throughout much of English history, with the Cornwall area of England being the locale of much of King Arthur’s realm. The honey-sweet drink goes well with dried fruit and nuts, blue or aged cheeses, and with dessert tarts.
Ireland
Hmmm… Where to start? How about 1759 when Arthur Guinness began combining roasted Irish barley, hops, brewer’s yeast and pure spring water to make his namesake beer, referred to as stout. Today, 10 million glasses of “the black stuff” are consumed each day. Of course, it’s not really black but a deep ruby red due to the roasted barley used in the recipe. Guinness is also known as a “meal in a glass” and the joke is that Guinness is one of the major food groups in Ireland. Today, Irish whiskey is made at four distilleries – Bushmill’s, Cooley, Jameson, and Midleton. The aroma and flavor profiles are light and smooth, because the whiskies are triple distilled and not peated. Irish beers and whiskies go well with the hearty fare of the island nation – robust meats, cheeses, and potato dishes.
Isle of Man, United Kingdom
Perhaps the most unusual spirit of the Celtic regions is ManX Manx Spirit, described by its creators as “contemporary technology with a classic taste”. ManX Spirit is a redistillation of existing Scotch whiskies, in a process that removes the color from the liquid, leaving a crystal clear product. It comes in two variations: the red label is a redistillation of existing blended whiskies, and aged at least five years; the blue label is a redistillation of existing “pure malt” whisky, also aged at least five years. Why do this? According to the description on the website, “A lot of us want the taste of whisky without the color of whisky getting in the way of our favourite cocktail.”
Wales, United Kingdom
As with most Celtic regions, Wales is well-suited to produce wines, beers and distilled spirits because of the abundance of water and grain. There are dozens of Welsh breweries, with S. A. Brain in Cardiff being the largest. Penarth Vineyards produce fine Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. But it is Penderyn Distillery that plays the trump card. Located in the foothills of the magnificent Brecon Beacons National Park, the distillery offers a complete portfolio of spirits, including vodka, gin, Welsh Cream Liqueur, and a single malt whisky, which has been aged in used Bourbon barrels from Kentucky.
Scotland, United Kingdom
Scotland has brewed beer for over 3,000 years and (legally) distilled spirits for a little over 500 year, although much longer in reality. More popular brands of beer include Belhaven, McEwan’s and Tennent’s. Scotch whisky is bottled primarily in two ways – as a single malt, meaning it is the product of one single distillery, or as a blend, meaning it consists of small amounts of three to four dozen single malts and grain whisky, blended together. The name “whisky” is derived from the Gaelic word for water of life: usige beatha (“ooskie bah”). Over time, ooskie became whisky.
So that is our brief history of Spirits in the Celtic regions. I can’t say that this even touches the surface of what is the complex history of the Celts and their brews. To learn more, short of going visiting the regions in Europe, I suggest the Arizona Highland Celtic Festival in Flagstaff, July 17 & 18 as part of your summer get away.
About Ray
Ray is a nationally recognized single malt Scotch expert. He recently retired after 16 years within the spirits industry, including four as Glenfiddich U.S. Ambassador. Ray currently presents educational whisky seminars and tastings for corporate events, destination management companies, and national whisky shows. He is a photographer and member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association.
by Ray Pearson
In our previous Whisky 101 article (click here), we learned some of the basics of Whisky. Today, we explore some of the key factors that make quality whisky and bust a few myths.
It’s in the Water
There is actually more water in a single malt whisky than there is alcohol! Most single malts are 40% ABV (alcohol by volume), leaving 60% as water. This is like “40% chance of rain” also meaning we’ve got a shot at no rain. It also means the water used should be good stuff. Water is one of the three ingredients to make single malt, the other two being yeast and barley. It is used to soak the harvested barley so the kernels will germinate. It’s also used in various stages of production, leading to the creation of a liquid similar to beer. After distillation, water is used to reduce the ABV before the liquid goes into the casks. After years of maturation, water is again used to reduce the ABV to bottling strength. Distilleries are very proud of their proprietary water sources and go to substantial efforts to protect the integrity of the precious water.
Blame it on the Moonshine
When the distilled spirit goes into the casks, it is completely clear. In America, this very high proof, gut-wrenching liquid was called “moonshine.” It’s only after many years that the rich color palette develops, from pale yellows to deep golds and beyond, thanks to the action between the wood and the liquid.
Let the Angels Rejoice!
Maturation is a fancy name for aging. In Scotland, single malts are aged in a variety of warehouse types. The most picturesque, and the type you generally see on distillery tours, is the dunnage warehouse, with earth floors, thick stone walls, and casks stacked no more than three high. During the many years of maturation, a portion of the whisky evaporates through the wood casks and is lost to the gods. This earthly loss is called “the angels’ share”.
Two types of wooden casks are generally, but not always, used to age Scotch. The first, and majority, are made from American white oak, previously used to age American whiskies. The second cask type is made from European oak, previously used to age sherries. Most single malts are comprised of liquid aged in both kinds. There are some single malts, however, that are aged only in used bourbon casks or only in used sherry casks. Things are never easy.
No Joke… A few words about the more popular myths surrounding single malts:
A man walks into a bar and says “Barkeep, give me your best Scotch – the oldest you’ve got.” What Pete, our very wise and soon-to-be myth busting bartender, heard: “I don’t know Jack about Scotch, but the most expensive and oldest must be the best.” Pete has just been handed a golden opportunity to educate and earn a hefty tip.
In general, older means one thing: it’ll cost more than something younger, but older says very little about quality. Most single malt Scotches arrive at their optimum aroma and flavor somewhere between 12 and 21 years of aging, give or take a few years either way. Before and after those ages, the liquid’s quality could be iffy. That’s why, when a single malt aged 25, 30, 40 or more years is anointed by respected judging panels, it is usually extraordinary, and generally worth the price it commands. Myth: older is not better, but will probably be more expensive.
A man walks into another bar and says “Gimme a Scotch”. Says Glen, another wise and myth-busting bartender, “Will that be a single malt or blend?” The man asks Glen to pick a single malt. “How would you like that” asks Glen, but our unwitting student hears: “What can I put in your whisky to screw it up?” So naturally the response is “I never add anything to my Scotch – it ruins it.”
Although there are no rules to enjoying a nice Scotch, a little magic can happen in simple ways, like adding just a little water – about a half teaspoonful or so to the whisky. Glen’s student, like most, but not all people, experiences how this makes the aroma and flavor fuller, more robust and softer. Myth: Adding anything to single malt will ruin it.
Next time: A quick tipple through the various spirits of Europe’s Celtic regions, from Spain to Scotland. There are eight regions and eight liquids – very spiritual.
About Ray
Ray is a nationally recognized single malt Scotch expert. He recently retired after 16 years within the spirits industry, including four as Glenfiddich U.S. Ambassador. Ray currently presents educational whisky seminars and tastings for corporate events, destination management companies, and national whisky shows. He is a photographer and member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association.
By Doc Lawrence
America’s wine culture has deep Southern roots. Everything meaningful from importing the great wines of Europe, stocking the cellars at Monticello and at the White House and entertaining guests with unforgettable wine dinners began with Thomas Jefferson. The redheaded Virginia gentleman even provided the wines served by America’s first five presidents.
Despite a determined effort, Jefferson never succeeded as a winemaker. But he knew about and had a fondness for the wild grape with the enchanting Cherokee name, Cynthiana. His friend, Dr. Daniel Norton, a Richmond physician, did what Jefferson couldn’t and tamed the grape, making some good wine from it. Cynthiana was named after Dr. Norton and today, Norton is prominent in many states from Kansas to New York and Texas to Pennsylvania. But, it’s still as Southern as Hank Williams and B. B. King, and for those who haven’t tried it, it’s best described as somewhere between a Rhone and a red Burgundy.
I began collecting Cynthiana a decade ago and many are equal to the best of any wines I’ve ever served for dinner guests. Like all wines, the style will differ from winery to winery just as a Napa Pinot Noir will commonly be quite distinct from Oregon counterparts. Whether lamb cooked on the grill to planked salmon, Norton is a wonderful fit.
Availability is problematical. The domestic wine market is driven by gargantuan marketing and advertising budgets, drowning out so many of spectacular wines from small producers. But, it’s the effort that counts. Contact winemaker John Seago at www.ponchartrainvineyards.com. This Louisiana wine is excellent and as food friendly as you’ll find. Seago fashions a light-colored Cynthiana varietal that knowledgeable enthusiasts compare to Volnay, the regal French Burgundy.
Just prior to mindless Prohibition, Norton was highly regarded, winning heads-on competitions with the great wines of Europe. While Norton barely survived Prohibition, it has made an impressive comeback. Ponchartrain Vineyards, just north of New Orleans, is joined by Georgia’s Tiger Mountain, Virginia’s Horton Vineyards, Stone Hill in Missouri and North Carolina’s Sanctuary (in the Outer Banks), in producing some amazing vintages.
Virginia and Missouri declared Norton as its official state grape and wine. Stone Hill, the Hermann, Missouri winery near the Missouri River is a Norton colossus. I walked through an ancient vineyard at Stone Hill where vines remain that once produced Norton for both the Confederate and Union Army. Riedel, the legendary crystal stemware company recently introduced its new line tailored for Norton at Les Bourgeois Winery in Missouri.
Norton seems to have an affinity for Southern food. Fried quail with gravy, shrimp and grits, country ham, duck gumbo, smoked mullet are natural taste partners. However, it’s barbeque, the classic Deep South staple, where Norton really shines as a beverage. While enjoying barbeque I’ve found that if you think of the wine as Cynthiana, everything pairs better. On July 4, read the Declaration of Independence while sipping a glass of this wine. It’s an ephemeral, very American ritual where the reward is the experience.
Got my own way of drinkin’
But every sip is done
With a Southern accent
Where I come from. (Tom Petty)
About Doc Lawrence
Doc Lawrence is a veteran journalist whose mastery of language is matched by his love of the people and places that make up the dream come true called America. An Atlanta native, Doc prepared for a lifetime of storytelling by education and travel, earning several degrees plus living in places such as England, Barbados and Ireland. Ranging from wine and fine dining to celebrity chef interviews and folk art, Doc shares his adventures with an emphasis on the good and positive. A founder and former editor of The Nationwide News, Doc Lawrence was the 2006 Chairman of the Food and Beverage Section of the Public Relations Society of America in New York City and is the Director of Wine for the International Food and Wine Travel Writers Association founded in Paris in 1954. He is a member of the South Florida International Press Club and the Atlanta Press Club and an avid fisherman and accomplished home chef. He is currently features editor for Wines Down South. Click Here for more of Doc’s work on Southern Wines or here to keep up with Doc. Send Doc feedback at DocLawrence@docsnews.com
by Michael Cervin
Though Spain is better known for the red wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the Rueda, located north east of Madrid, is home to arguably Spain’s best white wine, Verdejo. Similar in style and characteristics to Pinot Gris, Verdejo fully expresses itself in the high altitude of Rueda where it showcases lemon and citrus, minerality and above all, a sharp acidity which makes it compelling with the tapas so that are so ubiquitous around the region. It’s also inexpensive, with bottles exported to the U.S. usually less than $15. Verdejo has been planted in this area for over a thousand years, and it’s believed it was brought to Spain by the Moors. Some producing vines date as far back 130 years. However it has been only in the last few decades that Verdejo has proved to be the best fit for the cooler Rueda region.
Winemaker Pablo del Villar of Bodegas Hermanos del Villar says, “Verdejo is ideally suited to the poor soils and harsh environment in Rueda.” The stress on the vines and wide diurnal swings, where daytime temperatures can tumble as much as 25 degrees at night, help to create the fundamental acidity that Verdejo is known for. Rueda itself is geographically unremarkable; mainly flatlands, though high in altitude, about 2,300 feet above sea level for most of the region and some areas even get snowfall. The majority of vineyards are bush types, low to the ground which spread out their leaves along the sandy, rocky soils to absorb the sun. The area is also dotted with pine nuts trees; thin trunked trees with a round canopy which makes them look like lollipops. Palomino, Sauvignon Blanc and Viura are also planted here, but they pale by comparison.
There are fewer than 60 wineries in Rueda, and only a handful of those allow public tastings. But things are changing. The grape is catching on everywhere, so much so that acreage has doubled since 2005 and other regions in Spain are beginning to plant it. But like any signature grape, to understand its true identity you need to go to the source.
I visited Rueda in April, 2010 which allowed me the luxury to visit with producers, winemakers and growers, and sample more than 100 Verdejos in and around Rueda. The end result has been a newfound affinity for this white grape. At its best Verdejo is sharp and clean with lemon and lime notes, a backbone of minerality and a potent acidity. That may sound simple, but crafting excellent wines is not a simple process. It was also clear that many producers are trying their hand at a barrel fermented version and the results are less than spectacular. Verdejo is best when left alone and the inherent qualities are not interfered with.
“Verdejo is our personality,” says Juan de Benito Ozores, the director general of Bodegas Alvarez y Diez whose Montel Blanco wine is ubiquitous in the States. It’s understandable that any winery portfolio needs diversity and that has driven winemakers to experiment with oak. But thus far, with a few exceptions, Verdejo is best unadulterated. Though the vast majority of Verdejo should be drunk young, on several occasions, I was table to taste verdejos 10 to 12 years old, and while they are still drinkable and enjoyable, they are not compelling. The bright acids work best within recent vintages and the lively freshness of the wine is at its peak. Additionally, the local tapas in the area, most notably in the city of Valladolid, such as white asparagus, chorizo, bacalau (deep fried cod) and torreznos (a pan fried pork) are enhanced by this invigorating, firm young wine.
Some of the consistent producers of Verdejo include the mother/daughter winemaking team at Jose Pariente, Bodegas Lorenzo Cachazo, Bodegas Naia, Bodegas Yllera and Bodegas Nieva, all names to look out for. While visiting Naia I had the fortunate opportunity to taste through all of the 2003-2009 vintages which showed the differences in growing over the years as some of the Verdejos vary in acidity. This isn’t Napa, there are no picturesque tasting rooms dotting the landscape. There are however, dedicated producers who are striving to perfect the grape that is their own. It’s easy to assume that low yields or “proper” spacing of the vines have some impact on the quality of the fruit.
“Mathematics has nothing to do with it. You just have to pay attention to your vines,” says Victoria Pariente, winemaker at Jose Pariente, arguably one of the best Verdejo producers. And she underscores why the wines from Rueda are gaining notoriety; simply put, the winemakers are paying strict attention to their signature grape, making certain the world knows when they reach for Verdejo, it’s classic Verdejo they will get, not some funky blend or well-intentioned winery “project.” Pariente sums up the nature of Verdejo poetically. “Wine is like a bear. When it is cold, the bear wants to hibernate. When it is warmer out, the bear is more active.” Currently the wines from Rueda are indeed active with wonderfully crafted juice that truly reflects a sense of place.
About Michael
Michael Cervin has been writing about the wine industry for over a decade from his home in Santa Barbara, California. His publications include Decanter, Wine & Spirits, Wine Enthusiast, The Tasting Panel, Wine & Dine, Wine Country This Week, Santa Barbara Magazine, IntoWine.com, and more than 60 other publications. He is the restaurant critic and travel writer for the Santa Barbara News-Press. His wine and food judging experience has included The Best of Vinho Verde in Portugal, the Monterey Wine Competition, the California Central Coast Wine Challenge, The Taste of Rum Festival in Puerto Rico, the Firestone Chef’s Challenge (with celebrity chef, Bradley Ogden), the Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting, the Paso Robles Winemaker’s Cook-Off, and many other competitions. Michael is the author of the Moon travel-guide Santa Barbara & the Central Coast and is a co-author of the Moon wine travel-guide, Moon California Wine Country, to be released in April 2011. His first book, Generous Fiction was released in 2009. Check out his wine, food, and travel photo-blog: www.CervinItStraight.com and www.MichaelCervin.com
Add This Book to Your Collection:
Michael’s latest book will hit bookstore shelves nationwide on October 26, 2010. The Moon handbook, Santa Barbara & The Central Coast, “is the most comprehensive travel book to date covering Santa Barbara and Santa Barbara wine country, as well as Ventura and Ojai in Ventura County, Morro Bay, Cambria, San Luis Obispo, and Paso Robles,” says Cervin.
The book details the best area wineries, choice places to eat and stay, and things to see and do from the usual (Mission Santa Barbara, Morro Rock, Hearst Castle) to the unusual (Bubblegum Alley in San Luis Obispo, the Frog Wall in Santa Barbara, Ojai’s Pink Moment, and Morro Bay’s Black Hill).
Recent Comments