Category: Travel Journal (Page 2 of 5)

by Ray Pearson

This Stop: The LumberYard Brewing Company

Flagstaff, Arizona

To the uninitiated, Flagstaff, Arizona may seem like a sleepy little mountain town, undeserving of its location along the glorified Historic Route 66; but take a closer look, and you’ll see that in this groovy little town, there are many ways for a weary traveler to “get his kicks.”

While it may not have been a major tourist attraction for anyone but outdoor-enthusiasts in the past, Flagstaff has seen a major renaissance in recent years. Artists, gourmands, and entrepreneurs have descended upon the area seeking inspiration and opportunity in the shadowy majesty of the San Francisco Peaks. Fortunately, this renaissance laid the foundation for the development of a great food scene. On my travels, I got to experience one of the latest (and possibly greatest) additions, The LumberYard Brewing Company.

 “The Yard” which opened earlier this year, adds a new dimension to the food and drink world of downtown Flagstaff. The beer selection usually includes about ten varieties, ranging in alcohol content from a bit over 4% to nearly 11% ABV (alcohol by volume). Seasonal beers, like an Oktoberfest Marzen, add an ever-changing, dynamic element to the menu.

The food selection is top-notch, eclectic, and inexpensive; I couldn’t find anything over $10 on the three-page menu. Standouts include a Crunchy Cajun Catfish Po’boy, Louisiana Hot Links, Southwest Salad, and a delicious Calamari for noshing.

However, the most unique creation by Chef Nick was inspired by his wife Amber: “The Irish Egg Roll” is basically a twist on the Rueben – corned beef, sauerkraut, carrots and Swiss cheese rolled in an egg roll wrap and fried. Served with a side of Russian dressing and The Yard’s special mustard sauce, this baby is a real deal for under seven bucks. The LumberYard Gold Ale went beautifully with it!

With a name like “The LumberYard,” the restaurant and brewery doesn’t exactly encourage visions of creative pub-food and great beer, but locals know that the name is simply a nod to the building’s history. Owners Winnie and Evan Hanseth restored one of the last standing buildings from Flagstaff’s lumber era to create their second location in town. The polished cement floors, classy metal high tops and warm wood booths, all bathed in food-friendly light from high-tech halogen fixtures make The LumberYard a great place to relax and enjoy terrific sights and bites.

With your hunger and thirst satisfied, you might even find the motivation to check out the Historic Route 66 (just one block away), take a look at the shops and galleries that line the streets of the downtown sector, or wander over to the visitor center next to the railroad tracks where more than a hundred trains pass every day.

Keep your eyes open for more Sights and Bites on the road with Ray and join him on his next stop in Bisbee, Arizona at the Copper Queen Hotel.

About Ray

Ray is a nationally recognized single malt Scotch expert. He recently retired after 16 years within the spirits industry, including four as Glenfiddich U.S. Ambassador. Ray currently presents educational whisky seminars and tastings for corporate events, destination management companies, and national whisky shows. He is a photographer and member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association.

For more articles from Ray, you can visit his blog:

whiskymeister.wordpress.com

And of course check out all of his Whisky 101 articles right here at intotheSoup.com.

By Steven Shalowitz

Several years ago, while traipsing through the ruins at Cyrene, Libya, the skies unexpectedly opened and my traveling companions and I took cover from the downpour under a beautifully preserved portal.

Our guide, Maan, a Damascus native, quickly pulled Styrofoam cups and a thermos full of hot tea from his backpack to warm his dripping charges.  As a further lift, he passed around a marquetry-inspired tin filled with tiny squares of baklava — “I brought these from home” he smiled. The taste and texture of tender phyllo pastry with a mixed-nutty center and just the right amount of honey, was a completely transformational experience.

That encounter lifted my soggy spirits, and as I schlepped through Libya over the next few weeks, I couldn’t help but think that truly, one of the highlights of the trip came out of a decorative box all the way from Damascus.

I reckoned, if that’s what Syria tasted like, I needed to go.

Ignoring warnings from people who thought I was either brave or crazy, I rattled off a list of sights to them I genuinely wanted to see in Syria. Naturally, I didn’t make known I was also going to satisfy my sweet tooth.

After my late-night Royal Jordanian flight landed in the northern Syrian city of Aleppo, Maan greeted me with his signature smile beaming from his round face.

While he knew my love of history and archaeology, which we covered during my two and a half week visit, he also knew that a key reason for the trip had to do with what I discovered inside a box one rainy day in Libya.

And so the next morning, after meeting me at my hotel, Maan drove me to a nearby bakery for the trip’s raison d’etre.

I walked in and was captivated by a countertop filled with round tray after tray of sweets. As is the custom, the shopkeeper offered me a sample from the array of goodies spread out between us.  The morning light streamed in, illuminating each tray as if it were a work of art. While I couldn’t decipher the Arabic on each of the sweet’s descriptions, it took me no time to find the baklava.

I pointed to the appropriate tray and with years of anticipation, carefully took the wax paper cradling the tiny piece of baklava from the shopkeeper, as if it were as precious as any ancient artifact.

I held it to my nose and breathed in deeply, reveling in its fresh-baked sweetness.

Then, the moment of truth…

I bit into the rectangular sweet, and slowly chewed it, uncovering just the right proportion of a flaky top, nutty yet slightly soft center, and a moist bottom. Like that first morsel of Syrian baklava I encountered in Libya, I was sent into sugary nirvana.  I hate to think of the carbon footprint created just for that one moment, but let me tell you Al Gore, it was worth it.

Sensing I didn’t want to leave the bakery, Maan motioned for the shopkeeper to pack up a few pieces of baklava for me to take away.  The rest of the shop’s sweets I simply had to taste with my eyes.

To see Steven’s blog, visit:  www.tastewithyoureyes.com.

Write to Steven at:  steven@stevenshalowitz.com

Hey Soupers,

No need to salt and pepper me–I am officially a “seasoned” traveler! (Some culinary humor for you). My 5 1/2 months living and working in a French kitchen were some of the best of my life. But for the last half of September, I finally got the chance to spread my wings and see more of Europe. What a trip!

I began my travels in London to visit a friend that I met in Lyon. I didn’t realize how used to being immersed in the French culture I was until we began touring London. The sound of  spoken-English was almost deafening to my newly bilingual ears. I was unimpressed by the English food, but I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised. My palate has been spoiled by carefully-crafted French dishes.

My next stop on my mini-European tour was Innsbruck, Austria, where I met up with the “Dining on a Dime” ladies, Julie and Emily (they are also my schoolmates), and two other schoolmates, Kolby and Jeremy. Julie, Emily, Jeremy, and Kolby all happened to be in Innsbruck for a cooking competition (The Big Cooking Contest) in which they were competing, so when I found out about this a few months ago, I booked a flight to support my friends! Of course, the competition may have been the focus of their trip, but I have to admit that it wasn’t mine. Innsbruck is a picturesque little city nestled at the base of the Alps. The buildings are very old and beautiful, the river that runs through the center of the city is lined with walking and bike paths, and public parks and gardens can be found around almost every corner. As if the scenery wasn’t enough reason to visit, the food is pretty darn good: Sausages, Schnitzel, and Beer cheaper than water? Yes, please.

The day after the competition, my friends decided to take a day-trip to Bolzano, Italy to reward themselves for a job well-done (Kolby and Jeremy placed second and won 1800 Euro!). Naturally, I went along, you know, in case they needed me for my French-skills…

I believe Julie was the most excited out of all of us. After all, it was her idea. I think it was about a 2 hour drive and it was beautiful! None of us could put our cameras down. Once we arrived, we found a really nice restaurant called Blue Moon. It was one of my favorite meals here in Europe. We ordered a few appetizers to share–beef tartare, veal carpaccio, and some smoked fish. For our main course I had the rack of lamb served with a pan sauce, potatoes and some veggies. It was delicious, but it didn’t end there (thank goodness). To top it all off,  we ordered every dessert on the menu. We had the strawberry-tiramisu, creme caramel, creme brulee, chocolate and white chocolate mousse, and some kind of puff pastry that seemed to be stuffed with marshmallow crème and covered in chocolate.

Once we finished our lunch we walked around the outdoor market. Emily learned that you are not allowed to touch the food there when she was scolded by a not-so-friendly Italian vendor for picking up an apple. I guess in some parts of Europe, shopping is really a hit or miss activity! That night I said goodbye to everyone and wished them all a safe flight back to the states. It was a bittersweet farewell because it was nice to see them, but I was going to Parma, Italy next!

Another culinary school-friend of mine is currently working on her Master’s degree in the study  of slow food. I can’t tell you much about that, but Natalie does blog about it (see bottom of page for link) so you can learn more about what she is doing there.

Natalie  is obviously a foodie, so she took me to the local joints with the best “eats.” I had some great espresso and hot chocolate there! The hot chocolate was so thick it was almost pudding! Natalie  introduced me  to some of her Italian and school-friends, but very few spoke English. Luckily, one did and she explained to me that people in Parma don’t really speak any other language. The “Parmesanos (?)” are very proud Italians and a bit isolated from what I gather. I understand their pride, though. The town is beautiful and the people are genuine.

I know you are just waiting for me to say it, but OF COURSE I had the cheese! On my last night in Parma,  I dined in a wonderful restaurant where I had tortellini filled with spinach, pumpkin and potato served with plenty of PARMesan Cheese, and need I even say  it? I had  gelato for dessert. Words just can’t express my love affair with this gelato…

And that my friends, is really where my story ends…for now. My last days in Europe consisted of the drudgery of gathering my things and departing from Paris. Now, I must return to the States for a few short months to finish my degree, but there is no question in my mind that I will be scheduling my return flight to Lyon soon after my plane hits the tarmac in Arizona.

Bon voyage et Au revoir!

Coty

To read more about Natalie’s studies of “slow food” (no, we don’t mean escargot) go to http://eatslow.wordpress.com

Hello Soupers!

I can’t believe what I am about to write, but it has come to an end. I have finished my internship in Lyon. Just a few short months ago, I started out new to the country barely knowing a word of French and without any idea of where I might work. Now, here I am saying goodbye to my co-workers and my chef after one of the greatest experiences of my life.

Chef was not happy to see me leave. That is a victory in a way. He asked me to stay and continue to work for him here in France, but I need to return to my school and finish my culinary program. So, he has written me a letter of recommendation and bid me adieu. I have learned so much from him, and I will always be grateful that he took a risk on an American student that he had never met.

I will be returning home with a great education. I have learned so much. Of course, there is the language. While Chef was on vacation, I had to operate in the kitchen almost entirely in French. I became so much better at the language while he was gone that he seemed confused when he got back and didn’t need to translate his orders.

I have learned much about Lyon and especially the food. Food like Lyon Sausage served with a demi-glace or red wine reduction sauce; Quenelle (a type of dumpling made from ground seafood, chicken or beef mixed with a binding mixture and then poached in stock) served with a béchamel or fish sauce and very tasty with mushrooms, carrots and radish in the sauce; and Brioche au Praline just to name a few. They are all available just about anywhere in the city. One particular recipe I will take back with me is a delicious Tarte aux Pralines made with cream and pralines. It is very rich, very sweet, and very wonderful.

I have been to restaurants all over the city, and of course, some are better than others, but overall, the quality of food in Lyon is incredible. The best way to describe it is to discuss a few restaurants that I have been to recently with my good friend Emelie.

One was George Blanc’s restaurant which actually started as a brewery in 1836. I tried a main course of boneless rib steak served in a pan sauce, some crispy parsley on top and bone marrow along side. It came with macaroni and cheese and veggies. Emelie had a fish dish served in a pan. The waiter took the fish apart at the table and made a pan sauce right there. We both then ordered the crunch caramel butter surprise for desert. Despite its name, this is not the kind of treat you get a movie theater. The desert was a dome of chocolate mousse with a crunch caramel center and ganache covering it.

A few days later, we visited Grand Café des Negociants established in 1864. I was happy when Emelie chose it because I wanted to try it since I first saw the menu months ago, but it is not the kind of place you visit on your own. This is a place with some history, and you can see it in the details of the decor. I was inspired to perhaps design my future restaurant in the same manner.

With lots to choose from, I took on their Menu Lyonnais which comes with four courses. My first course was Pâté en Croûte Maison au Foie Gras et au Ris d’Agneau which translates as Pate of the House with Foie Gras and Sweetbreads. My second course was Quenelle de Brochet Artisanale, Sauce Nantua, Timbale de Riz which is Quenelle served with a Nantua sauce and rice. This delectable sauce had both button and oyster mushrooms, carrots, radish and zucchini. My third course was some delicious cheese Crevelle de Canut which is a really creamy cheese the texture of yogurt with fresh herbs mixed in. Finally, for my dessert I went the simple route, a traditional crème brulée with some berries.

I will also remember the people I have met and the personal experience that I have shared. For example, my friend Mathilde invited me to her family’s house over a weekend. Her home is in the town of Perouge and her house is over 200 years old. Her mom prepared a delicious meal. Her father enjoyed having another guy in the house as he has three daughters. We had a typical French dinner that lasted several hours then I took a walk around the town with her father. He showed me the history of the town down to the wells where they used to wash clothes and an old wine presser that they used to crush grapes. When we returned, we stayed up late into the night talking about the differences in culture between Americans and French. I worked with Mathilde for a while at the restaurant, and we were good friends from that experience, but meeting her family and sharing a meal with them in their home was one of my most special evenings in Lyon.

So now I am done with my internship, but this is not my last entry. I plan to do a bit of traveling for the next month. I hope you will indulge me as I relate my experiences as I visit different parts of Europe and describe the food I eat and the people I meet along the way. Who knows, I may just stop and see some of my fellow students – Julie Fiedler and Emily King (the DOD girls from Into the Soup – compete in a culinary competition in Austria.

Au revoir,

Coty

Read all of Coty’s experiences in Lyon by clicking here

Hey Soupers,

So, it has been a while since I had a good culture clash with my French friends here in Lyon. Who would have thought that it would have been a soup that would bring it on? You learn something every day in a French kitchen, and generally, you don’t see it coming.

Since the economy tends to slow down in France this time of year as families escape to beach-front towns and other vacation hot-spots all over the world, the restaurant currently only offers a limited menu and no buffet. As a result, less food needs to be prepped, and I get more time-off.

I enjoy working, but I don’t miss the 66-hour weeks. Even the Chef is taking his vacation during this slow season, which is not great for me because it means that I am on my own dealing with certain cooks who think that they own the place. A few of them assume that my language deficit correlates with my cooking skills (false), but I use this to my advantage. If they try to correct me on something that I know I’m doing correctly, I simply pretend that I don’t understand them and finish the task my way.

Of course, most of my colleagues are wonderful, and I enjoy talking to them about my culinary program at home. One of the major things I am looking forward to when I return to the States is my Senior Practical Dinner. It is sort of a final project for which I will have to pull-off a multi-course, themed meal for eight people of my choice. I like to throw around ideas for the menu items I might serve and get my colleague’s reactions. This led to an interesting discussion about Vichyssoise.

In America, we are taught that Vichyssoise (a cold potato, cream, and leek soup) is a traditional French soup. But, if you ask the French about it, they will look at you like you’re talking about burritos.  I found this out the hard way.

I was shocked by the reactions of my co-workers when I brought up Vichyssoise. Not one of them had ever heard of such a dish! It actually made me a bit hot and caused me to question their knowledge of their own cuisine. That is until I did a little research.

Turns out that while the French use a lot of potatoes and leeks in their cooking, and probably do make soups with them, the name of the dish and the service style was most likely formalized by a French Chef, Louis Diat of the Ritz Carlton in, get this, New York during the 1900s. He named the soup Vichyssoise after Vichy, France a town not far from where he grew up. The verdict is still out on the facts because Internet resources can be sketchy, but I think I might be on to something here… It sure explains the looks I got.

I know I said I would do more traveling in the coming weeks, but I thought it might be a good idea to explore and appreciate Lyon. I mean, it has been my home base for the few months, but usually when I am here, I am working so much that I don’t get the chance to explore.

While I was out I wanted to try a new restaurant, and I was going to attempt to find a place that served something other than French cuisine. It’s hard to deny myself all the French food I can stand while I am here, however, so I settled on a modern French restaurant called La Clé A Noa.

I like to eat well, but I also can’t afford to blow half of my paycheck each time I go to a restaurant. Luckily, I have learned some secrets to stretch my Euros. One of the best ways to experience the cuisine at a restaurant is to order the menu du jour. This usually consists of three courses of some great, seasonal dishes and is generally quite reasonably priced.

My meal at La Clé A Noa for example only cost me about 15Euro. I started with a salad of mixed greens, hardboiled egg, tuna, cucumbers, and poppy seed vinaigrette. Next came a filet of halibut with coconut milk sauce, served over a bed of rice and mixed vegetables. At that point, I was starting to feel full, but I knew that the best was yet to come—my grand finale: delicious chocolate cake with a warm fudge center served with a crème anglaise and raspberry sauce.

I’m sorry for making your mouths water Soupers, but as a culinary student, I feel that it is my duty to eat well and embrace flavor and technique.

Well, that just about covers my lazy week in Lyon, but I will surely have more adventures to fill you in on soon!

Coty

Read all of Coty’s experiences in Lyon by clicking here

Bonjour Soupers!

I just finished yet another week of working in the kitchen. As you probably already guessed, I love every minute of it. There are still occasional misunderstandings, but I feel like I have come such a long way.  

I rarely have to take a minute to translate what is said to me. My reactions are just automatic now. I felt my victory over the language barrier this week when our style of service and menu changed which meant that conversations were full of new words and commands. Surprisingly, I was able to keep up and understood nearly everything I was told! Of course, it helps that my culinary instructors back in the states taught me many classical French-cooking terms.

I am now a regular fixture on the line, and my speed and skill have increased to such a level that nobody has to bail me out anymore. I am also starting to earn the respect of my co-workers. One of the cooks often asks me to taste things she is cooking and if her techniques are correct.

Life outside the restaurant is just as good. I have met so many new, interesting people who love to travel and appreciate new experiences. This has really been a month of self-reflection as I realize how far I have come not only as a culinary professional, but also as an individual. I am so glad that I came to Lyon on my own. While it was intimidating at first, living without a net forced me out of my comfort zone. I had nobody to rely on, so I was forced to be proactive about my living situation, my job, and making friends.

Speaking of friends, I don’t think I could have gotten by without the ones I have made here. Circumstances have brought me so close to the friends I have met abroad, that I feel like I have known them forever. Take my friend Brianna for example. Our friendship blossomed because I recognized a lost, little American like myself.

I was on my way to the movie theater during some of my precious free-time and decided to stop at a nearby smoothie shop first. While in line, I noticed that the girl in front of me was completely confused. Since I know how it feels to be lost in translation, I helped her order. We ended up seeing the movie together and hanging out afterward. The next day, Brianna introduced me to a girl in her study-abroad program, Viar, who was from Jakarta. Since that day, the three of us have spent many nights hitting the streets of Lyon and having a great time. We definitely plan on staying in touch and meeting up for more adventures.

Regarding the French… I love ‘em!

In my time here, I have not come across a single one that fits the stereotype Americans cling to. In fact, I have found quite the opposite to be true. The French folks I have met have been nothing but kind. Though most people in Lyon don’t speak English, those that do speak it love to practice. They especially like my American accent for some reason.

My experience has also made me more passionate about cooking. Unlike most of us busy-Americans who often eat just to fill our stomachs without truly savoring our food, the French really appreciate the art of cooking and eating a great meal. Eating out at restaurants is a special event. Despite the existence of tons of great restaurants, fast-food, and microwave-dinners, people still seem to prefer cooking at home. I guess that makes the job of a Chef in a country like this even more special because people can cook and eat good, basic dishes all week, and then go out on the weekends and experience the wonderful ambience of a restaurant surrounded by good friends and the artistry of food prepared by professionals. I just love to see people around a table having a good meal, sharing good times, and making memories.

In the end, it’s all about the memories, and those that I have made in Lyon will stick with me for the rest of my life.

Coty

Read all of Coty’s experiences in Lyon by clicking here