by Chef Joe LaVilla

What is it about the primal urge we have to place meat over fire? The sound of sizzling meat, the allure of smoke, and the beautiful grill marks are all enticing. The real draw is the result of high heat mixing with glycogen and protein in the meat; thus, creating a delicious new taste through the application of science.

When a piece of meat is placed over high heat, several things happen.  First, the proteins begin to denature and then coagulate. If looked at under a very powerful microscope, a protein would look like a telephone cord that is tangled up around itself.  As heat is applied, the protein begins to unravel.  This is denaturing.  As the heat continues, the protein will change its configuration, to the point of no return.  That is coagulation. Basically, once meat begins to cook, it can’t be “un-cooked”.

When meat is exposed to really high heat, like a grill or hot skillet, chemistry happens. The technical term for what happens is the Maillard (mai-yard) reaction. In the Maillard reaction, the glycogen and glucose that is stored in the muscle begins to react with the proteins and amino acids to create new compounds. 

As a chemist, I want to be able to demonstrate the reaction and point to the resulting compound which is the flavor.  Imagine being able to bottle that compound and then treat it as an ingredient in cooking!  Unfortunately, we are not that lucky.  During the Maillard reaction, hundreds, if not thousands of new compounds are made that contribute to that savory characteristic of meat we perceive to be flavor. 

The Maillard reaction does not just happen on the piece of meat. When searing a steak or pieces of meat, chefs will often talk of the “tasty bits” that are left on the bottom of the pan. The French have a term for those ‘tasty bits”, it’s called fond.  The process of deglazing is the addition of liquid to the pan in order to release the fond from the metal and dissolve it into the liquid. The fond is completely the result of the Maillard reaction.  As a chef, I will tell you – never, never, never skip deglazing.  You are just throwing away a tasty gift of the process when you do.

As long as we are on the subject of heat and meat, there is one kitchen myth that needs dispelling.  Contrary to popular myth, application of heat alone does not “seal in the juices “; rather, it is the combination of searing the meat in a hot pan and then allowing it to rest that results in a tender, moist cut. The myth is derived from the visible Maillard reaction on the surface which creates a crust; however, all that is happening is that the protein in contact with the pan is contracting as heat is applied.  This reaction forces the juices of the meat into the center of the cut.  The movement of the juices requires that the meat “rest,” or in layman’s terms, be removed from the hot cooking surface and placed on a cuttingboard to sit, unpunctured for a few minutes after cooking.  Resting allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat.  If a piece of meat is not allowed to rest after cooking, cutting into it will cause all of those flavorful juices to run out of the meat and onto your cuttingboard or plate. While it may be tempting to slice into that beautiful steak hot-off-the-grill, remind yourself that “good things come to those who wait.”

While not yet explained by science, the Maillard reaction is some of the best chemistry you could conduct in the kitchen or on the grill. Flavor, color and even juiciness can be the rewards if you sear the meat well and let it rest for a few minutes before eating. So, fire up that grill and get your flavor on.

 

About Joe LaVilla

Chef LaVilla is the Academic Director for the Culinary Arts programs at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Phoenix. Besides being a Certified Executive Chef, Chef LaVilla also holds a certification from the International Sommelier Guild (ISG) as a Certified Sommelier. In addition, Chef LaVilla is experienced in food styling, food and wine pairing, the hospitality industry, culinary arts management, and more.

Before joining The Art Institute of Phoenix, LaVilla had been Executive Chef for Tucchetti restaurant in Phoenix. He has worked for Mark Tarbell as well as Wolfgang Puck. His credits include, “Faculty of the Year” award at The Art Institute of Phoenix; finalist in the Arizona Pork Council Taste of Elegance Competition; and author of the textbook “The Handbook of Wine, Beer and Spirits: A Guide to Styles and Service”.

Chef LaVilla received his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Rochester and his Bachelor of Arts degree, Cum Laude, in Chemistry from Cornell University. He also received an associate’s degree in Culinary Arts from the Culinary Institute of America, where he graduated with honors.